Equus 3100 Innova CanOBD2 Diagnostic Tool

I have a 1998 Chevy Silverado 1500 z71, (5.7 Vortec, 4x4, 3 speed automatic.)
It has been running fairly sluggisly for the better part of a year. It would bog down or try to stall at stop lights. I'd have to shift it into nuetural and then it would run smoother.

I did a compression test and replaced the spark plugs and wires and it seemed to get better but then BAM! the sputtering-trying-to-stay-alive stall was back.

I ran some injection cleaner and that didn't clear it up.
So I replaced the fuel filter. It seemed to run fine after that for quite awhile. . . right up until the 'letter' came in the mail. . .
You know the One. Registration and smog.
There's nothing like a mandatory smog-mail to turn that old 'Service Engine Light ON.'

The truck started feeling like I had the parking brake on while backing up and the tryin-to-stall & die at stop lights was back again.

So was 'The Light'.

The Service Engine Soon light:

Now I don't know how many parts are on your vehicle (kidding) but I had already replaced several parts that hadn't fixed 'The Light' and I had no idea what part to try next.

When I first looked into what to do about my Service Engine Soon light, with a smog test coming within 30 days, I kept coming across information on how to turn off that light with OBD2 Code readers.

As I read more I soon discovered that simply turning off that light (or disconnecting the battery) wasn't going to fool that computer nor the smog guy. If there is a problem after you have shut off that light with your Code reader and it wasn't fixed then the light will simply come back on when your computer cycles through and still sees a problem in the system.

If you have done some homework you have spent time reading up on diagnostic scanner tools; their reviews, their cost, their use, and whether or not such a diagnostic tool will help you at all with your particular automotive problem.

Spend some time looking at product HOW TO videos at Youtube also. It is very informative.



Some Check Engine Light Reading n Clearing Tricks:

Vehicles with Digital Odometers: I have not been able to verify if ALL vehicles with digital odometers can READ Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) but certainly there are many listed in searches that can and do. You will have to go check your odometer and see! [View this video at Youtube as example that shows how turning ignition on off three times can display OBD2 codes, via your odometer, without needing to buy a Code Reader !.]

There appears to be several tricks to enable an analog 'trip-odometer' to work as well depending on your vehicle. With Honda: hold the trip reset button in while turning the ignition on (not start) till the dash indicators come on. Keep holding it in until the Check Engine light goes off.

My truck didn't have a digital odometer - and none of the 'tricks' I read about for my trip-odometer worked either.

Niether did turning ignition key on off three times enable my check engine light to flash codes as in some pre-'96 models I read about...example video of check engine light flashing trouble codes here:

There appears to be quite a few variations on retrieving codes, [You know what they say: RTFM!] or clearing the light, without a reader, depending on Vehicle years or models. I even saw a video that a Nissan Titan light could be cleared by a series of gas pedal pumps with commenters who said it worked.
I then found a page that reported that a gas pedal trick could work on ALL GM models.

1. Turn car off.
2. Turn Key into ON position. (do not start)
3. Push the gas pedal all the way down 3 times and hold it down on the 3rd time until the light disappears. This should take about 10 seconds.

That didn't work for me.

Besides, I didn't just want that light off by now - I knew from battery disconnects that it was just going to come back on after a few miles driven. I wanted, and needed, to fix it and keep it off.

So I was really down to taking it to a service repair station- or to buy or borrow a Coder and try to do it myself [if it wasn't something major].

I am going to skip all of the Equus 3100 Code Reader manufacture specs [pdf manual here]and jump right to the point.

Did this OBD11 tool help me locate and fix the problem my 1998 Chevy Silverado was having?

The answer is a resounding YES!

The trouble codes zeroed in on problem areas and I was able to resolve my issues without replacing good parts as I may have already randomly done.

Will this type of tool help you? It certainly depends on your situation.

My situation was a smog test coming up, with a Service that engine now light on, and me being broker than a FEMA trailer window.

Options:
With some auto stores offering to check your system with their code readers for free (a very sound move to sell you the parts you may need) was it worth it to pay 87 bucks for my own tool?

The answer for me - a definite YES!

WHY?

Auto repair places want 100 bucks to turn off that Check engine light - they rarely will give you the codes - though they'll tell you what they think you'll need to get repaired and how much they will charge for it.

You drive down the street, the light comes back on, and you're still out 100 bucks.

So you go get some parts- make some DIY repairs - but that light is still on - are you going to go pay another 100 to have it turned off to see if your repairs have fixed the problem? If your vehicle doesn't respond to any of 'the tricks' what do you do?

In this 'do it yourself' case, I'd rather have my own tool for under 100.

It just made economical sense this time because between reading the problem codes - performing a minor fix - shutting off the Service Engine Soon Light - having it come back on after only 7 miles driven - checking codes again- doing another fix - doing a drive cycle to run through all the Monitors - well you can see where I am going... back and forth 20 miles to the auto store 4-5-6 times to re-read the codes for 'free' wasn't really convenient nor free.

Also I have a friend who also had been running a Check Engine light for awhile - and although he wouldn't need to be smogged for quite awhile- my internet reading indicated that some codes left unrepaired can cause failures to occur to sensors - catalytic converter(s) etc.

If you have looked on internet you know that there doesn't appear to be any dang sensors for under a hundred bucks. Keeping on top of that light and not ignoring it could save us money in the long term.

Cost:

Could I have gotten a OBD2 Code Reader for cheaper than the $87.00 I paid for this one?

Yes.

Would a cheaper brand or model have done all of the things "I Thought I needed it to do" after days of reading about various code readers?

In my long-term, auto-amateur, analysis... NO.

Some models and brands will give you a code- and you'll have to go look it up in a book or on the internet. That is not really a negative.
Now even though my Equus 3100 model gave me the code AND the text of what the code meant- I can assure you I still spent hours reading up on the net about the codes I had - it's relative diversities - it's speculative meanings; and peoples postings on forums on success, or failures, and advice from others with the same codes.

One thing of importance is to remember that just because a code says something like having a problem with your 02 sensor doesn't necessarily mean that the sensor is bad- (there are videos on youtube on how to test various sensors too) - there could be an operational problem somewhere BEFORE the sensor creating a transferance problem related to the sensor malfunction. It could be an 02b FUSE! It could be any number of other sensors like the MAF sensor.

Some cheaper models n brands will not display wheather or not your Monitors have run and are ready for a smog test.

Some lower cost models won't read the C.A.N. protocol(.)
C.A.N. stands for controlled area network and is mandatory on all vehicles from 2007 Up.

Some models won't come with a USB capability so you can plug the Reader into your computer and log into an OBD2 code help center.

So I decided spending a little bit more and having a few more features was best for me.

Could I have spent more and got even more features? You know it!

BUYING:

Where did I shop for mine? I shopped the internet first...
After a lot of reading I had decided upon the Equss 3100.
There were name brands including Equss that had readers as low as 25 dollars such as Actron, so why Equss?

Well, Equss seemed to have the best HOW to understand operating the Reader videos so I think that is what decided my choice of brand for me.

Wal-Mart had the 3100 for 89 bucks- but almost a 50 mile round trip drive for me, or I could order online and pay shipping.
Ebay had several @ 87 bucks and free shipping;
Amazon had it for around 87 dollars.
Other places 84-89 bucks. Some free shipping, and some not.
I then got on the phone and called local auto stores; they wanted $129-139 bucks.

So where to buy was to be from the internet then.

It arrived quickly from Ebay (4-5 days) and after reading the manual I was ready for the TEST.

The TEST:

I'd already watched several Code Reader videos at youtube; finding the 16 pin receptor for the Reader was a snap, just remember to turn the key to on (not start). I ran it several times without linking up til I realized I hadn't turned the key on.

BOOM! Up popped 01/ 0f 06 problems and all I could think was - ut-OH.
And then I thought this dang thing is cool!

The Codes:
P0174 System too lean (Bank 2)
P0154 02 circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
P0161 02 Heater circuit (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
P0300 Random Misfire Detected

P1153 H02's insufficient Switching Bank2, Sensor 1
P0161 02 Heater circuit (Bank2, Sensor 2)

Now, the OBD2 instruction manual had stated that whatever the FIRST DTC listed was would be the Primary trouble.

If I had a bad MAF sensor, causing 02 malfunctions, wouldn't I be running LEAN on BOTH banks?

I didn't know. I still don't know. It just seemed to me that IF the MAF sensor wasn't mixing oxygen correctly that BOTH Banks would be affected.(??) It made a kind of logical sense to me at the time.

Logics aside, this tool plotted out that I was running Lean on bank 2 with 'random misfires' and 3 codes referring to my 02 sensors, 1 and 2, on Bank2.

No problems from bank1 at all.

So for the DIY-er we are asking ourselves wtheck is Bank 1, or bank 2?

I had to go study google some more. Basicaly plugging in the codes and text from the Equss Reader took me to thousands of people with the same codes and with lots of people answering questions about the codes and various fixes.

(in a nutshell bank1 refers to the 02 sensor coming from the side of your engine where cylinder #1 is...Bank2 is the opposite side of engine where cylinder 2 lives.
(Cylinder Location: find engine firing order specs of your model engine on net as I did)

Location of '98 Silverado 02 sensors:

I know- my diy online drawing needs some work :) It was like tryin' to work an etcha sketch...

Bank1 sensor 1 is the first 02 sensor before catalytic converter (upstream);

Bank1 sensor2 is refered to as (downstream)after the catalytic converter.)

The FIX:
For the 'stalling' problem I had already been running STP fuel injector cleaner for nearly 5 days in a full tank of gas. Then I ran Gunk injector cleaner in an empty tank at refill per instructions.

After several more days I was still getting 02 sensor readings.
Bite the bullet. I was bracketing the simplest trouble code causes I had read about and maybe it wasn't dirty injectors which, I HOPED, left the 02's as the probable primary problem.

The truck has 127k miles on it with a recommendation of sensor(s) replacement at 100k. I convinced myself that the ole rig needed them and crossed my fingers.

They'll tell you it's not a perfect science...just ask the auto guy who just charged you 600 bucks and you drive down the street and that blasted light comes back on.

So- After replacing two 02 sensors on upstream Bank2 sensor1; and downstream bank2 sensor 2 (thanks greatly to my son-in-law Robert, and an 02 slotted sensor socket I bought, and a Can of PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst to break the threads)
I erased/cleared/ the MIL Service Engine Soon light with the Coder - and was ready for the drive cycle.

But before I get to the drive cycle I'd like to touch on a couple more things I scooted over that may save you a couple of mistakes before you make them.

The sensors on the internet can be almost HALF the cost of those at the local auto store. Some with FREE shipping included.

The problem is getting the right one/s. Even plugging in all my truck specs there always came up so many variations to choose from that I finaly went to auto store to be sure their book gave me the right part.
NOPE! Even they sold me one sensor that had the wrong electrical connection. A female instead of a male. Had to take it back.
The problem appeared to be all the truck questions asked were right except no question was asked about which transmission I had. They had sold me one for specs on a 4 speed auto trans- mine was a 3 speed auto spec.
I mention this because I can't recall anywhere on internet auto supply houses that transmission was asked about when narrowing down all of the sensor choices and I probably would have ordered the wrong part tryin to save that buck.

On the other hand- now that I have the part numbers (upstream and downstream are different) I can find them directly on the net- and yep- they are nearly 20-25 bucks cheaper whenever I need to replace the Bank 1 side.

Also online auto supply houses had drop down boxes for choosing which series truck you had before choosing from a list of sensors - I didn't know if I was the C-series or the K-series?? - I found I was the "K" class on a sticker in my glove box... also in the glove box I found past smog test paperwork that said "K".

The other thing to know is there are OEM and Universal sensors.

OEM sensor(s)come with connectors; that are suppossed to fit :)
A Universal has no connector which means you will cut your old wires and solder and heat shrink the new wires to the old.

What else? Whoever designed the placement of these connectors should have his head examined. Terribly placed, out of reach and barely visible - very difficult to disconnect and re-connect-especially with one hand.

Be sure to add some anti-sieze on the sensor threads so that they are easier to remove in future.



What is a drive cycle?

Well after 7 miles, this time, my light didn't come back on!
After driving 20 miles, uphill, downhill, stop-go- and hitting the freeway, it didn't come back on.
The truck was going through a cycle within the ECM (computer) seeing if everything was functioning to it's specs under different driving conditions... If what I had repaired had NOT fixed what was setting off the light it would come back on :(

Different vehicles have different "drive cycle" specs. (see internet for your model)

I also learned (refind list) that there are many vehicle models that will never do a drive cycle because the cycle begins anew every time the key is turned off and back on and may be on a smog Monitor 'readiness exclusion list'.
[ Vehicles with OBDII Testability Issues ]
[Appendix J of the Smog Check Inspection Manual]
[note in the Appendix J Manual above it states that Code Readers could be damaged if you have changed out your OEM sterio on Audi and Volkswagen!]

I digress- as usual...

After 50 miles I was feeling pretty darn successful but still uptight.

I plugged the 3100 in and I had 3 monitors that still had not run. You will know they haven't run yet because they will be flashing.

After hauling a load of topsoil 20 more miles and the engine light was still off - I plugged in the Reader when I got home and it showed I had only one monitor that still had not run. --> "EV".

I ran to search engine to see what "EV" was. It had to do with fuel system - Evaporative system monitor - like your GAS CAP...always tighten gas cap till you hear several CLICKS.

Monitors:
Back to search engines...could I pass if I had one monitor flashing!?!
Research told me - yes.
In California Vehicles under year 2000 are allowed 2 monitors not yet run - and autos over year 2000 are allowed only one; although there appears to be some exceptions for vehicles running the C.A.N. protocol. (check your State for specs)

This is all information I learned on the internet using structured keywords and a lot of digging.

At 90 miles, and no light, one monitor not yet run, I felt I was ready for that smog test.

I passed.

The truck is running very smooth now.

Thanks to this Equus 3100 OBD2 Code Reader I was able to try to do it myself and succeed.